moab – along the colorado   11 comments

Posted at 6:05 pm in Utah, geology, sabrina, sage, traveling alone

Church Rock along Route 191 between Monticello and Moab

After jumping forward to write about the CSP Mystery Ball here in Bisbee, I’m picking up the trail after my previous post about Lowry Pueblo. After leaving the ruins and crossing back into Utah from Colorado, I approached Monticello from the east, only to find snow falling on the high country just to the west. Any plans I’d had for camping up in that area were abandoned. Checking out the sky in each direction, I decided that it looked better up north toward Moab, so turned the van and headed that way.

I’m quite accustomed to encounters with odd rock formations in the southwest, but the sight of Church Rock practically brought me to an abrupt stop (see above – click on all images for larger views). Fortunately, there are turnout lanes in each direction as this is one of those places where just about everyone feels compelled to stop and snap a photo. Knowing nothing about the history of the rock, I later learned that the hole at the base is alleged to be the work of a group of followers of Marie Ogden who had led them to Utah to form a utopian religious colony north of Monticello.

Marie’s Place – old cabin which was once part of the utopian colony begun by Marie Ogden

A few days later, while driving along a nearby road, I photographed a cabin (see above) which was posted with a sign Marie’s Place, or something to that effect. Thinking it must have been some kind of abandoned B&B, I gave it no more thought until looking for information on Church Rock. There’s actually quite a history to Marie Ogden and her group. If curious, you can read more about Marie and the Home of Truth colony here and here.

map of the area around Moab, Utah, where I camped for about a week in November

This signboard with a map of the Moab area should help to orient some of the places which I visited and camped. Arriving in Moab, I dropped by at the visitor center to ask about camping in the area. Originally, I had hoped to stay at the Devil’s Garden campground which is situated within Arches National Park, but the person on duty said that there was probably no chance of getting a site there as it is always full. From other posts on this blog, I’m sure it’s become apparent that I avoid any place where there are more than a handful of people – the less the better – so camping at Arches was completely out. I asked about other possibilities and was handed a page with a list of other sites in the region – most being small BLM sites along the Colorado River. With the list as a guide, I drove us out of town to explore upriver.

view across the roadway from our campsite at Big Bend on the Colorado

The first site I came upon (Goose Island), was about half filled, mainly with large RVs, so I kept going, on past a couple of smaller tent and camper sites until I reached Big Bend. It looked pretty ideal – there appeared to be no one there other than the camp host. I chose a site off on its own along the river. It was about 3 p.m., so the tall canyon walls were casting long shadows over most of the campground. I got to work setting up camp as I knew that the light would soon be lost. Our campsite was terrific. In one direction, there was a high formation with castle like columns (see above). Just below us flowed the Colorado River, the river banks illuminated by the last rays of sunlight on golden willow leaves (see below). All around us, birds darted through the bushes, stopping to sing a few phrases before moving on. No doubt, at a warmer time in the season, these river campgrounds must be crowded, but at this time of the year, they are all but abandoned. Perfect.

view of the Colorado River from our campsite at Big Bend

After a short walk with the dogs, I began making our dinner. Sage found herself a perch on one of the large rocks near the picnic table. The dogs and I had such a pleasant evening, sitting eating our dinners, listening to the rushing of the river over a set of gentle rapids. I thought of how lucky we were to have chosen this place rather than ending up in a busy campground. So many times in my travels, I’ve passed by busy spots, thinking that if I just drive a little further on, maybe we’ll find a quiet place. Fortunately, this has almost always proven to be the case.

Sage comfortably perched on a rock at our campsite

We had a quiet night and rose early, ready to set out for a day of touring through Arches National Park which actually lies just above where we had camped, but is accessed by driving back downriver toward Moab and then on north up Rte 191. I’ll be writing a post about Arches, so keep watch for that in the next day or two. However, I’ll end this post with a couple of photos taken along the Colorado River canyon.

high red sandstone canyon walls along the Colorado

The sandstone walls of the canyons are a deep red, often streaked with dark desert varnish. Here and there along the roadway, there are hiking trails going up through steep side canyons. I did not do any exploring on this trip as I would have had to leave Sabrina in the van. In many places, there are the beginnings of arches cut into the canyon walls. They will gradually change, eventually wearing away to create the kinds of arches that will be seen in my next post.

the beginnings of arch formations in the vertical walls above the Colorado River

Written by bev wigney on February 19th, 2011

11 Responses to 'moab – along the colorado'

Subscribe to comments with RSS or TrackBack to 'moab – along the colorado'.

  1. wonderful images of your journey Bev- growing up in the desert, I’ve always been fascinated with rock formations.. I love how Sage looks so relaxed on the large rock :)

    Cindy

    19 Feb 11 at 7:14 pm

  2. Beautiful photos. I love that area. On the road to Hunter’s Canyon, which is itself a nice easy hike, there are some of my favorite petroglyphs in particular one called Birthing Rock. It has petroglyphs on all sides of a huge boulder and one looks like a woman birthing something, could be the earth. The story goes that women went there to either get pregnant or to have their babies. The creative energy there feels very special to me.

    Rain

    19 Feb 11 at 7:30 pm

  3. Stunning scenery there, Bev. I bet the starry sky at night there is spectacular. It’s quite interesting taking this journey with you on the blog. You do go some places that I have never even considered, and they are incredibly beautiful. I like being an armchair traveler with you.

    robin andrea

    21 Feb 11 at 10:29 am

  4. cindy – I love that photo of Sage. It was funny to be making dinner and turn to find that she had climbed up on the rock and was comfortably settled in. I think she wanted to have a better vantage point from which to watch dinner being prepared!
    -
    Rain – I’ve read about a Birthing Rock that sounds quite similar – it’s along Kane Creek past other petroglyphs at Moonflower Canyon (I’ll put up some of those photos when I do a post about that day). I ran out of time and never got that far down the road, although I’ve seen photos from that site. I’m guessing that these might be two different sites, although your description sounds similar. I’ll have to make a point of visiting it next time I pass that way.
    -
    robin – Yes, the scenery is pretty amazing throughout southeast Utah. Definitely worth a visit, even if it is as an armchair traveler!

    bev wigney

    21 Feb 11 at 11:17 am

  5. Been there. Saw Church Rock and camped on the river. Wish I could go back. Maybe one day.

    Can you take dogs on the trails at Arches? I don’t remember whether I had my dog with me when I visited there.

    Mark

    21 Feb 11 at 11:47 am

  6. mark – I believe it was the usual National Parks “no dogs on the trails” there – except the campground and on the paved road. The dogs were with me, but just got out to stretch their legs in one of the parking areas. That was another good reason to camp at Big Bend as we could wander around there.

    bev wigney

    21 Feb 11 at 11:52 am

  7. I’m finally here again, after a week of being sidetracked! Beautiful photos, Bev. Church Rock is a fascinating formation. As I was reading what you wrote and viewing the photos, particularly the one above of the Colorado River from your campsite, I found myself wishing you were posting additional materials…videos…or that I was able to come along for the ride!

    John

    26 Feb 11 at 8:45 am

  8. Hi John – Thanks. I should try to remember to shoot the odd video clip. It’s not something I think of doing too often, but it would be nice to share the sounds of places and a bit of moving around. Maybe on the trip homeward this spring!

    bev

    26 Feb 11 at 9:19 am

  9. Awwww . . . such a sweet pup on that rock.

    Those two views taken from your campsites are lovely.

    Having never been in that area – they make me start thinking . .

    Reeeally interesting piece about Truth Colony. Found this in the link you provided:

    “She claimed to be the reincarnated Virgin Mary . . ”

    Oy!

    Cathy

    3 Mar 11 at 9:19 pm

  10. Cathy – If you get the chance, you should definitely do a bit of tripping around in the Moab area. Quite different than many of the other regions of Utah that I’ve visited.

    bev wigney

    4 Mar 11 at 9:35 am

  11. Superb website……

    [...]always a big fan of linking to bloggers that I love but don’t get a lot of link love from[...]…

Leave a Reply