Archive for the ‘geology’ Category
NOTE: As mentioned some time ago, the comments function of this blog no longer work. I tried to get the problem sorted out before going on the road last autumn, but to no avail. I finally resorted to setting up a new blog at another URL. It contains all of the posts that reside at this URL, but also has all of the missing comments and allows new comments to be posted. You can find the version of this post to which you can post comments here. I’ll try to remember to put up new posts here, but I suggest updating your bookmark to the new URL.
In my last post, I wrote about our first night at Big Bend campground on the Colorado River a few miles above Moab. The following morning, the dogs and I departed for a day of touring through Arches National Park. Arriving shortly after opening time, there were few other visitors on the main roadway that meanders through the park. I believe that the weather may have been keeping people away – there was a severe weather warning for rain and snow in the forecast. Fortunately, in addition to scaring away the visitors, the approaching storm front also made for some wonderful cloud formations in an area where clear blue skies are common. For a photographer, drifting clouds can create some dramatic light conditions over such vast landscapes.
I had some difficulty choosing just a handful of photos to represent our day at Arches, but I believe that this selection will provide some idea of the type and scale of the rock formations. Also, I wanted to show how theatrical these landscapes can become when the sunlight and clouds work their magic under certain conditions. I took great delight in standing awhile at each spot, watching as the formations could be transformed within seconds. In the past, I’ve enjoyed this effect over rock formations in other vast landscapes in places such as John Day Fossil Beds. Some of you may even remember me writing about such light effects back on my old “Burning Silo” blog back in November 2006.
Another interesting aspect of these formations is how much the appearance can change as you move around the periphery. What at first looks to be an irregular wall of rock may, within seconds, reveal a massive arch. Likewise, spires and boulders balanced atop rock towers often morph into the heads of howling wolves, a dragon, a group of people, or whatever else one might imagine.
Soon after arriving at Arches, I noticed that my way of looking at the place seemed to differ from that of the other visitors on that day. Very few would stop at the turn-outs where you would have a view of the landscape and the rock formations at a distance. Most would bypass these spots, rarely even slowing down, but instead driving on to park before an arch or other formation to snap a few photos. For myself, I loved the distant views where I could watch the storm front passed over the landscape. It was amazing to see a formation from a couple of miles off, and then drive toward it, marveling over how it would change as I drew increasingly near.
The only problem with Arches is the same I have encountered in the past. After four or five hours of being immersed in red rock, I begin to experience a sense of overload. There’s just so much that your eyes and mind can handle before it begins to feel like a little too much — at least, for this easterner who is more accustomed to lakes and forests. By the turnaround loop at the end of the road, I had seen enough red rock landscapes for one day and was ready to return to my campsite on the Colorado.
The weather forecast proved to be correct. That evening, shortly after cleaning up after preparing our meal, the rain began to fall – gentle at first, but then increasing until it was pounding on the van roof. When the deluge continued for a couple of hours, I began to consider how such a downpour might change the flow of the river alongside our campsite. When you have camped in red rock country enough times, you learn to have some respect for the effect that heavy rains can have on creeks and rivers. A dry creek bed can soon fill and become a raging torrent, tearing and transfiguring its sandy banks. After a time, I opened the window near my head and listened to the river. The gentle sound of waves lapping on the shore had now become a growling rumble in the utter darkness. During a lull in the rain, I decided to get up, pull on my jacket and take a good look at the river with my largest flashlight. I was quite sure we were in no danger of flash flooding on this section of river – the campground being located quite a few feet up from the water’s edge. Also, there was little evidence of previous flood damage – always a pretty good indication that it’s a safe spot. Still, in my travels, I have seen the remains of long-established campgrounds that were torn apart by raging rivers – so much so that they were never repaired or re-established. I’ve also met camp hosts who are out checking river levels during the night, deciding whether to tell people to move to higher ground (the Smith River in northern California being one place where this has happened). That thought was enough to get me up shining a beam along the shore. However, after checking out the river, I found it was a little higher than earlier in the day, but not enough to be concerned. Now I would be able to go back to bed and go to sleep, knowing that there probably was little chance that we would need to relocate to higher ground.
The heavy rains continued on through much of the night. By morning, the air temperature in the canyon was much different than on the previous couple of days. Gone was the slight warmth that seemed to radiate from the great masses of stone about us. In its place, there was a frigid walk-in freezer feel to the air. I’d been thinking of staying on another couple of nights, but knew we would probably feel cold and miserable. I decided to break camp after breakfast and go exploring elsewhere. I wasn’t quite sure where we would go, but knew that just about any site would be warmer than the one we were leaving.
I’d been thinking of going up to see the petroglyphs and pictographs up at Sego Canyon near Thompson Springs, so that became our morning destination. After that — well, surely we would come upon a good place to camp a night or two. That’s the way I try to think when traveling — to remain optimistic that something interesting will present itself. Most times, that’s just how it goes.
I’m going to end this post with something a little different. A friend in New Mexico sent me a link today, saying that this song made him think of me. I watched the video and soon discovered why. The song is entitled Lighthouse, performed by Antje Duvekot, written by Antje Duvekot & Kate Klim. Here is a link to the lyrics for those who are interested. Thanks to Dusty for sending this along. I very much enjoyed hearing this song.
On my way east, I made several stops and detours to visit sites marking sections of the Oregon and California emigrant trail. I’d visited a few on previous trips to the west – but none in Idaho. There are several such sites in and around City of Rocks of which I’ve recently written. After leaving that location, I made my way northeast into Montana, en route to southeast Alberta. Along the Idaho section of interstate, I stopped to visit three such emigraint trail sites. For those who are not familiar with the trails, they are still quite visible in many places — the land cut so deeply by cart tracks that you can still see their route over a 150 years later. The above sign post at a interpretive kiosk reads:
Early California and Oregon trail ruts — left by thousands of emigrant wagons as they ascended this bluff — still are visible below this viewpoint.
In 1859, F. W. Lander’s wagon road builders dug an improved grade that shows more clearly, California traffic, for which Lander constructed a better road, diverged from the Snake River route to Oregon, just below Raft River, 6 miles west of here. When they got up this grade, emigrants were thankful that they had passed 20 miles of bad road, and that a less demanding trail lay ahead.
The above photo shows the spot where cart tracks crest the top of a steep trail. In the background, a truck races by on the nearby interstate. It’s so odd to stand in such a place, imagining oxen or horses struggling to haul a wagon up this grade, while watching cars and trucks fly past. How different it is for us to move from place to place. On my own journey, sometimes I experience strange feelings of being “out of place” because I’ve moved a little too quickly through the landscape and can’t seem to rationalize where I am at a particular point in time. That’s one of the reasons that I make a conscious effort to connect with the geography many times each day as I move from Point A to Point B during my travels. I don’t want to begin to take the earth for granted to the point that I lose that sense of place and movement.
One of my stops along the way was to visit a “register rock”. These were large boulders where travelers on the Oregon and California trails would write their names or messages in axle grease, or if time permitted, even chisel their name into the stone. Such rocks are usually found at those places where people would make camp for awhile to rest, find food, drink good spring water, and allow their animals to graze and recover from arduous days of trekking across difficult sections of the trails. I shot several photos of inscriptions on this rock, which is located along a side road just off of I-30 to the southwest of American Falls, Idaho.
As I studied the inscriptions, it made me think a little about my own eastward journey. About three hundred thousand people made the westward trek along the emigrant trails. They left their homes in the east, in most cases, quite unsure of what they would find the end of the journey. Their expectations probably differed at least somewhat, if not greatly, from reality. I have had the technological benefit of being able to see photos and even small video recordings of the place awaiting me at the eastern end of this trip. Still, how different would it be from the glowing images on my computer screen? Would the property feel as spacious and private? Would the house be better or worse than the condition I supposed it to be?
A short while later the same day, I turned off I-15 to wander a little on the paved paths at Hell’s Half Acre lava field interpretive trail. It’s located by a rest stop near Idaho Falls. It’s difficult to imagine a more inhospitable piece of land to attempt to traverse on foot. When we read accounts written by those who traveled the emigrant trails, they describe an endless string of impassable mountain ranges, rivers, and other geologic features. Today, we are barely fazed by such obstacles. We fly far above in our airplanes, or drive through or over on highways and bridges. In so many ways, our technology has separated us from an awareness of the land. What we have gained in convenience, we have lost in intimacy. I’m not sure if we are better for that exchange.
Update: I wanted to give everyone an update on how things are going. Although this post was about the trip from Arizona to eastern Canada, that leg of my journey has since been completed. I arrived in Ottawa around April 10th, stayed a few days to buy a trailer, load it with a collection of my tools, then headed east to Nova Scotia to take possession of the new-old house that I’ve bought. I’ll try to write more about it soon, but suffice to say that the property is pretty much all that I had hoped for — a stretch of waterfront on a brook, plenty of trees and privacy. Good neighbours. Plenty of nearby trails going out into the forests, or along the Annapolis river. The house itself is, as anticipated, in rough condition and will be quite a challenge. But that’s what I was searching for when I began looking at properties online — a place that would help me to keep my mind and body occupied while I work on moving forward with my life. After just over a week, I can tell you that I love the area around Annapolis Royal.. but more about all of this in another post.. hopefully very soon.
EDIT: For those who would like to take a look, here are photos of the house and land. The first three or so rows of thumbnails are recent — taken within a day or two of arriving. The ones down below are older shots that I got from MLS listings, and/or that were sent to me by may agent, or saved from .vpike searches. Things have already changed since the photos in the first row were taken. The front and back lawns have been mown, I’ve been busy scraping and priming the exterior paneling, and I’ve begun tearing out the plaster and wallpaper in the downstairs room with the “big trucks” and “athletes” wallpaper. There’s a ton of work ahead – both small jobs and some major structural stuff — I’ll be the first to admit that, but it’s a neat property and seems well worth the trouble. Anyhow, here’s the link. Click on any thumbnail photo for a larger view.